Taking from The Master of Foxhounds as these hounds should still be able to their job
Head; Should be full size but by no means heavy, pronounced brow but not high or sharp, ears should be set on low and lying close to cheeks, teeth must meet squarely, either undershot or overshot can be disqualification, but if hound has hunted it should not be disqualified for it having teeth missing due to injury as bite would still be correct, if teeth were there.
Neck; should be long and clean, it should taper nicely from shoulders to head, the upper outline should be slightly convex.
Shoulders; should be long and well muscled without being heavy,
Chest and back; this hound should have a good depth in chest for great lung capacity for endurance back should be muscular either level top line or wheel-back are favored as sign of strength, back should never be dipped.
Stern; should be well set on, continue from spin, strong and straight is preferred, never monkey like (never curled over back like huskies)
Hindquarters; are the driven force behind this hound, so should be very strong, stifles should be moderately bent , (not as a Greyhounds,) as this hound is for endurance rather than a bust of speed.
Elbows; set straight and neither turned in nor out.
Feet and legs; MFHA insists on legs as straight as posts and as strong, size of bone at ankle being especially regarded as all important, knuckling over is not favored. The bone cannot be too big and the feet, in all cases should be round and catlike.
Coat and colours; not regarded as important as feet and legs, all good hound colours are acceptable with preferences coming from hunt or breeders own favourites. Colours black, tans and whites or any combinations of these three, also seen are “pies” with white and colour of hare badger, yellow, tan.
Texture can be smooth as long as short, dense, hard and glossy, or wire coated